Botanical Name: Lycopersicom esculentum Family: Solanaceae Type and Use: Tender perennial, grown as an annual with edible fruit. Location: Full sun Planting Dates: For transplants use the following schedule: Plant after all danger of frost in the spring and 12-14 weeks before the first average frost in the fall. In general, April 1 - May 20 and July 1 - August 5. Planting Method: Plant transplants by laying the plant down sideways or planting deeply. Tomatoes are able to root from the stems. The sideways method is best in heavier clay soils. Seed Emergence: If you start your tomatoes from seed, here’s the plan. Plant the seeds indoors in organic potting soil, ¼ - ½ inch deep in a well-lit or greenhouse condition. They will germinate in 5 - 14 days at about 68 - 85°. Keep the seedlings cool and in bright light to keep them from getting spindly.
Harvest Time: Harvest in summer when the fruit starts to ripen and turn red, usually 55 - 90 days after planting. Picking the fruit as the color first starts to change will help prevent birds, squirrels, and other critters from eating the fruit before you get it.
Height: 3 - 15 feet Final Spacing: 36 - 48 inches
Growth Habits: Succulent upright-to-spreading perennial that functions as an annual in Texas for two reasons: one, it freezes easily and two, it plays out with age as it develops insect and disease problems. Bush (determinate) and vining (indeterminate). Tomatoes do not like evening temperatures above 75°. And guess what? We have a lot of that. Tomatoes are wind pollinated - not by bees.
A good nitrogen fertilizer is corn gluten meal. It not only adds nutrients, it also keeps some weed seed from getting established.
Harvest and Storage: Expect 5-20 pounds per plant. For the best taste, pick the tomatoes after they have ripened on the vine and store indoors in a dry, cool place, not in the refrigerator. Tomatoes can also be picked after they have started to blush in color. This helps to prevent animal damage and the fruit will continue to ripen indoors.
Another trick is to use the Japanese Planting Ring. It will maximize your tomato production in the garden. It is like a compost pile with tomatoes (or other vegetables) planted around the outside.
Still another trick is to plant a cover crop such as hairy vetch vicia villosa, a hardy annual legume.
Set the tomato transplants through the mulch into the vetch’s root system. Use manure, compost, or nitrogen fertilizer. The tomatoes will thrive until it’s time to replant the vetch in fall. This system has performed phenomenally in USDA tests in Beltsville, Maryland.
Q: My pots of tomatoes planted on my patio are forming a scab on the blossom end that is as large as the bottom of the tomato. If the green part were dark brown, it would look like a "buckeye". What causes this? B.R., Dallas.
A: That’s blossom end rot and is prevented by having calcium available and watering properly. Water thoroughly and allow a drying period between waterings. Apply soft rock phosphate at about 3-4 lbs. per 100 sq ft. Spraying the foliage and drenching the soil with compost tea or Garrett Juice will also help.
Here is a tip from a listener: My rule of thumb is the day the scissor tails return. They usually return the first week of April. One year they returned on a day there was frost, but none afterwards. Some people go by the mesquite tree, but the scissor tails have not failed me the last 10 years." Q: It seems like each year I get a good start on production, and then they turn brown and die. I am originally from Iowa and the producing period in considerably longer. So my question is how do I extend the life of my plants? A: Use my total organic program, but the cornmeal in the soil and spraying with Garrett Juice and garlic tea will reduce the problem significantly. There are many bushy tomatoes. They are called determinate rather than indeterminate. One of my favorite small bushy varieties is wild current tomato. It is very easy to grow and the tomatoes are small and grape like - also delicious. Q: I recently began organic gardening. I planted tomatoes for a fall garden, and they were beautiful but full of stink bugs. I sprayed with Bioganics and made garlic soap and hot pepper spray. The bugs flew off and came right back. The only way I killed any was to stomp them. I even became desperate and used some Sevin dust, but nothing killed the bugs. I want to stay organic, but it has been hard because my husband is a rancher and is not afraid of chemicals. R.F., Dallas A: Next time, try a product that contains spinosad, which is naturally derived and has relatively low toxicity. Bio Wash works well and helps organic gardeners with insects and diseases. Don't give up!
Brandywine Tomato success with organics. Last year was the first time that I planted Brandywine tomatoes and wanted to let you know how successful it was. I soaked the plants in a liquid seaweed solution before planting and put a handful of lava sand and sul-po-mag in each hole. The two plants yielded approximately 34 lbs of tomatoes. I have never seen tomatoes so big grown in Texas!! The largest tomato was 1 lb. 10 oz.and not one of the Brandywines cracked. I'm sure all the rain we got last year helped with the production, but all the other tomatoes I planted did not produce as well as the Brandywines. In the attached pictures, the sliced tomato yielded a platter full of "hamburger sized" slices that had a wonderful flavor. I served it with a homemade dressing of olive oil, basil flavored vinegar, fresh basil and garlic. What a wonderful combination of flavors! Showing off my tomatoes last year to all my friends and neighbors was the best advertisement for organic gardening. Keep up the good work! | |
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